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As one of the most important cities in the United Arab Emirates, Dubai has everything to meet a holidaymakers needs. The year round sunshine and excellent soft sandy beaches along the Jumeriah coast are ideal for those wanting to relax. For the more active, there are watersports to be enjoyed in the warm waters of the Persian Gulf. One of Dubai’s highlights is the Gold Souks, where gold glistens in the windows of endless rows of shops. Shopping here is a must – the duty free status of the city means there are plenty of bargains to be found.
The hotels in Dubai are surely among the World's best. They may have contrasting exteriors, from the tall and modern to Arabian palatial style, but they all share an excellent standard of quality. Whatever you chose, you are sure to have a fantastic holiday.
Dubai
As long ago as 1580, an Italian traveller reported that Dubai was a prosperous pearl-diving and fishing community. It was still much the same at the beginning of the 20th century, when over 300 pearl-diving dhows were stationed in Dubai's Creek. Modern Dubai can be said to date from the 1830s when 800 men of the Bani Yas tribe under the Al-Maktoum family settled here. The Al-Maktoums have ruled ever since and what's more seem to have been blessed in each generation with a leader of acute business acumen.
In 1894 the family began giving tax exemptions to foreign traders and in 1903 persuaded a British steamship company to use Dubai as the main port of call en route to India. When Sheikh Rashid took over, things really began to hot up. In the 1950s he invested heavily in dredging the Creek, which was beginning to silt up. The modernization programme continued with the decision to build Jebel Ali, the world's largest man-made port, and to develop Dubai's international airport, with its famously lavish duty-free area. Dubai's unbridled laissez-faire economy was encouraged, but crucially underpinned by considerable spending on infrastructure. It seems to have paid off. Dubai is not dependent on oil production for its success—less than a quarter of the emirate's wealth comes from petroleum exports. Instead, Sheikh Rashid emphatically achieved his ambition of making Dubai the region's leading trade centre: Dubai today accounts for 70 per cent of the UAE's imports and re-exports. He died in 1990 and was succeeded by his son, Sheikh Maktoum, who would seem to be keeping a steady hand on the tiller.
The Arabian Gulf coast comes under the influence of the civilizations of Mesopotamia and the Indus River. With East-West trade routes passing along the Gulf, goods from India and China reach the coastal communities and travel on to the interior by camel caravan.
16th–17th centuries
The Portuguese become the dominant power in the Gulf and remain so for over a century, taxing the Gulf's lucrative trade with India and the Far East. They seize the Kingdom of Hormuz (comprising much of what is today the UAE) and control the straits between the Arabian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman. In 1622 the British East India Company, with the Dutch and Persians, attack and eject the Portuguese from Hormuz. Around the mid-17th century the coastal communities of the lower Gulf are acquired by the imams of Oman.
18th century
The lower Gulf falls under Persian rule from 1720 to 1740. Decline of the Persian and Omani dynasties leads to a political vacuum which the British seek to fill.
19th century
Britain faces strong naval resistance from the al-Qawasim of Ras al-Khaimah. The lower Gulf is dubbed the Pirate Coast. After several British military actions, a final invasion in 1820 leads to peace treaties concluding with 1853 Treaty of Maritime Peace in Perpetuity. The lower Gulf coast is called the Trucial Coast. In 1892 "exclusive agreements" are signed between Britain and sheikhdoms guaranteeing protection in exchange for keeping rival European powers and Russia out of the Gulf. The Gulf's role as staging post for the route to India is enhanced.
20th century
The British leave India in 1947, weakening their need for a military presence east of Suez. In the 1960s vast oil revenues begin to flow in. In 1968 the British announce their intention to leave the region and the UAE is formed in December 1971. It comprises Abu Dhabi (capital and largest of the seven, with 85 per cent of the overall territory, and the only real oil state), Dubai, Sharjah (the main port of entry for tourists), Ajman, Umm al-Qaiwain, Ras al-Khaimah and Fujairah (the only emirate without a coastline on the Gulf). Within its total area of 83,600 sq km (32,300 sq miles) there is a population of 2.3 million, of whom 75 per cent are expatriate workers, mainly from the Indian sub-continent, South-East Asia and Europe.
Dangers such as the fundamentalist regime in Iran and the Iran-Iraq war prompt the UAE, together with Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain and Kuwait, to form the Gulf Cooperation Council in 1981 to strengthen the security of the region and promote economic cooperation. In the 1991 Gulf War the UAE stands firm with the UN coalition against Iraq's invasion of Kuwait.
Dubai is really a tale of two cities. But Dubai and Deira are divided by the Creek, which runs inland from the Gulf for about 10 km (6 miles) and once went as far as Al-Ain. It is the city's main artery, and its elegant serpentine curves and miraculously clear water provide the picturesque backdrop to one of the great sights of the UAE, the old teak trading dhows double-parked along the Deira side. Now powered by motor rather than sail, they bring goods to and from other parts of the Middle East and travel as far as India and East Africa.
The waterfront hums with the excitement of trade and is crammed with their incredibly diverse cargoes. Here you will see American refrigerators and Japanese electronics unloaded alongside stacks of plastic garden chairs, sacks of rice and even the occasional spiral staircase bound for who knows where. Contributing to the general cacophony are the abras, or water taxis, which crisscross the Creek till late at night. Their captains call out to passers-by until the boat is full and can depart. This never takes long, and the abra is by far the most enjoyable and easiest way to make the crossing. If you want a tour of the Creek, there is no difficulty in hiring the whole abra by the hour. Special dhow tours can be arranged through hotels and tourist companies.
Dubai's reputation for trade can be tested almost as soon as you leave the Creek. Everywhere you look there are bargains to be had, but don't be shy—haggling is virtually obligatory in this town. There are souks of every kind in Deira and you would be hard put not to find something of interest. Shopping expeditions are even more fun at night. Dull lanes become transformed into dazzling labyrinths filled with crowds of bargain hunters and the riotous sound of fevered deal-making. The narrow corridors of the spice souk are especially enjoyable to walk along, but there are also perfume, textiles, leather, clothes, vegetable and fish souks. The most famous one, of course, is the gold souk, where, in its hundreds of little shops, all that glitters is definitely gold. For the best electrical goods, take a look around Baniyas Square at the Al-Sabkha Road end.
On the Dubai side, near to where the abras dock, is the old souk, which is less frenetic than its Deira counterparts, but atmospheric nonetheless. Next to it is the imposing Ruler's Office, with decorative traditional rooftop windtowers. But for the genuine "old'" Dubai, carry on a short distance along the Creek to the Bastakiya district. These buildings dating from around the first decade of the 20th century were once merchants' houses. The square windtowers were an early form of air-conditioning and their open vents funnelled any available breeze into the rooms below. Bastakiya is now a prized conservation area.
The adjacent Al-Fahidi Fort, constructed in the early 1800s, originally served to protect the Creek from foreign invaders. It has acted as both palace to the ruling sheikhs and Dubai's seat of government. Since 1971 it has housed the Dubai Museum. In the courtyard is a barasti, or reed house. These houses were common throughout the region up to the 1950s. An excellent exhibition showing Dubai's history from the 1930s onwards has been installed beneath the fort. There is an extensive waxwork display of life in the 1950s, useful information on Arabian essentials such as wildlife in the desert, the role of the camel, national costume, a timely reminder of the contribution of Arabs to astronomy and navigation, and the chance to see inside a Bedouin black tent. There is an interesting archaeological display at the end of the museum. Look out for two particularly striking exhibits, a pair of graves from the Qusais tombs, three to four thousand years old. The Al-Qusais site, 13 km (8 miles) northeast of Dubai, is open to the public.
A fine building in the traditional style, Sheikh Zayed's House near the mouth of the Creek was built in the late 19th century. Sheikh Zayed was the present ruler's grandfather and lived here until his death in 1958. An extensive renovation programme has carefully restored the house to its former glory. Made from coral stone, lime and plaster, it is classically proportioned with an inner courtyard and finely carved archways, doors and windows. The house now contains a museum of ancient documents.
Inevitably, Dubai's architecture goes well beyond the traditional. The Creek skyline is a remarkable mix of mosques, mansions, ferris wheels, high-rise hotels and post-modern skyscrapers—the building with what looks like a gigantic golfball on top is the Telecom Tower, and holding the record for the highest hotel in the world is the splendid Burj Al-Arab, like a great white sail on the waterfront (opened end 1999). For an unparalleled view of the whole rich confection, make the ascent to the rooftop restaurant of the 39-storey World Trade Centre. Look in the other direction, however, and all you see is sand. In Arabia, the desert is never very far away.
Wild Wadi
an attraction that opened in 1999, is said to be the biggest water theme park in the Middle East.
A good example of modern Islamic architecture, something not always easy to locate in the hurly-burly of the emirate's building explosion, is the sand-coloured Jumeirah Mosque to the west of Dubai. This shows up especially well in the evening, when it is floodlit.
A favourite destination for visitors is the camel racing, which takes place on Thursdays and Fridays during the winter. Don't expect any mile classics; the participants, with their un-hurried, loping style, take some time to get up a head of steam. The races start early, so aim at getting to the track by 8 a.m. Horse racing is equally popular. The emirate is home to the Dubai World Cup, the richest horse race in the world. Night meetings at the Dubai Racing Club are particularly atmospheric as well as pleasantly cool.
On most golf courses in Arabia, you have to carry around with you a small square of astroturf from which you tee off into a seemingly endless sandtrap. But Dubai now boasts three championship-level grass courses. The Dubai Creek Golf Club is worth visiting just for the club house alone. Built in the image of the billowing sails of a dhow, it resembles more a scaled-down version of the Sydney Opera House. The courses are open to visitors and equipment can be hired, but it's a good idea to check first as to the best time to go.
As a break from the hectic whirl of metropolitan life in Dubai, take a trip out to the mountain village of Hatta. On the road to Hatta the sand turns deep red, as if burnt by the sun. In fact it's the effect of iron ore from the Hajar Mountains. The dunes are formed into waves by the northwest wind and grow higher and more crescent- shaped as they approach the mountain range. Excavations on the left side of the Juma valley near Hatta have revealed another ancient settlement similar to that at Umm an-Nar; 50 tombs were found dating from the 3rd millenium BC. Artefacts from these can be seen in the Dubai museum. The Hatta Heritage Village contains a restored 200-year-old settlement and gives access to the old Omani fort. The Juma Friday mosque situated scenically in a palm grove is also worth visiting.
There is little that might be called an indigenous UAE cuisine. The nomadic Bedouin had a limited diet: on special occasions they might feast on goat or mutton with rice but the staple was camel's milk and dates, known as "the mother and the aunt of the Arabs". The coastal Arabs, of course, had a supply of fish to vary their meals. What we know as Middle Eastern cuisine mainly comprises Lebanese, Iranian and Moroccan, all of which are readily available throughout the Emirates. For the less adventurous, all types of Western cooking can also be found, from hamburgers to the English Sunday lunch. Given Dubai's large population of workers from the sub-continent, it is no surprise that several good Indian restaurants are to be found there.
The best way to sample a range of Arabian specialities is to order a mezze, a Middle Eastern smorgasbord of starters that is as filling as a main course. On one tray you will be introduced to such delights as tabbouleh (cracked wheat salad with tomatoes, mint and parsley), hummus (a chick pea and sesame seed purée), moutabel (a delicious aubergine purée), wara einab (stuffed vine leaves with rice), and tahini (a dip of sesame seed paste, yoghurt and lemon). If you are still able, try a main dish such as makbous (spiced lamb with rice), hareis (long-simmered wheat and tender lamb), meshwi (a mixed grill of various types of meat and sausage), or any of the locally caught fish or shellfish such as red snapper, kingfish, pomfret, lobster and crab. A traditional snack is shawarma (grilled slivers of chicken or lamb, served with salad and stuffed into a pita bread). This is universally available at small shops and stands and is better known in the West via its incarnation as the doner kebab.
Popular desserts include esh asaraya (a type of cheesecake) and umm'ali (bread pudding with cinnamon and nutmeg. The Middle East is famous for its sweet tooth and even sweeter pastries, although fruit is the usual conclusion to a meal. The most common, of course, are dates, which grow throughout the more fertile areas of the UAE and at times have been responsible for the survival of the Bedouin.
Coffee is more than just a drink, it is an expression of the culture. Business and bargaining are traditionally never done without it, and coffee houses are repositories of cordiality and conversation (and, typically, only men). Roasted and pulverized beans are brewed in small brass coffee pots and served in tiny cups. The sugar is usually boiled at the same time and the coffee will be very sweet unless you make it clear you want it either mazbout (medium sweet) or murra (unsweetened). Don't stir the coffee, and let the grounds settle before drinking.
Remember, Muslim dietary laws apply. This means that in most places a sandwich and a beer won't be an option at lunchtime. Fortunately, the UAE being a relatively liberal society, you can obtain pretty much anything your taste buds fancy at the big Western hotel restaurants and bars. Prices for alcohol can be pretty steep, however.
As almost all the emirates operate as open ports with low import duties, goods from around the world appear in the shops and the souks at enticing bargain prices. At times it seems that Dubai is a vast Aladdin's cave crammed with the very latest watches, cameras, camcorders, fashion and textiles, perfumes and cosmetics. There will be plenty to tempt even the least enthusiastic shopper, but don't take the first price you're offered—bargaining is expected. The main thing is to enjoy the experience, for shopping here is something that engages all the senses.
There's no need to settle just for the high-tech and the modern, though. As one might expect given its location and its culture, the UAE is a great place to buy traditional goods from the Middle East. Dubai is known for its excellent prices on Persian carpets. Other popular items include antique silver jewellery, Marie-Therese dollars (until recently an accepted local currency), brass coffee sets, hand-carved wooden dhow models and various ornaments set with turquoise, lapis lazuli and other semi-precious stones.
Airport
Dubai International Airport (DXB) is 5 km (3 miles) southeast of the city. Taxis will take you to the city, a 10-minute ride away.
Banks
Open Saturday to Thursday, 8 a.m.–noon.
Climate
The hottest months are June to September when there is little rainfall. The best time to visit is between October and May.
Clothing
Lightweight clothing for daytime throughout the year, with sweater or jacket needed for winter evenings. Conservative dress in public is advisable. Except for poolside, women should avoid wearing tight or revealing clothing. Sunhat, sunglasses and sun block cream are essential.
Credit Cards
Major international credit cards are widely accepted.
Currency
The dirham (Dh) is divided into 100 fils. Coins range from 1 fils to Dh 5 and banknotes from Dh 5 to Dh 500. Old and new coins are equally valid, but some public telephones and vending machines have not yet been converted to accept the new coins.
Customs Allowance
Free import of 2000 cigarettes and 400 cigars and 2 kg of tobacco, 2 litres of spirits and 2 litres of wine (non-Muslims only), 1 litre eau de toilette and 150 g perfume.
Electricity
220 V AC, 50 Hz. Plugs have 3 square pins.
Health
Health facilities, hygiene and disease risk vary worldwide. You should take health advice about your specific needs as early as possible through either your general practitioner or a specialist clinic.
Holidays
Muslim festivals are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon. During the lunar month of Ramadan, Muslims fast during the day and feast at night and normal business patterns may be interrupted. Many restaurants are closed during the day and there may be restrictions on smoking and drinking.
Language
Arabic, with English widely understood.
Media
English-language daily newspapers include Gulf News, Khaleej Times and Emirate News. Foreign newspapers are available in hotel bookshops and supermarkets.
Passport
Your Tour Operator can advise passport and visa requirements only for British and Irish passport holders at the time of booking. For non-British passport holders and for British passports endorsed in any way, requirements should be checked with the nearest relevant embassy.
Photography
Be sensitive about photographing local people, especially women. You should not take photos of airports, government buildings or military subjects.
Shops
With variations, Saturday to Thursday 9 a.m.–1 p.m. and 4 p.m–9 p.m. or later. Souks open Friday as well.
Telephone
Calls within the state are free. The country code is 971. To make an international call, dial 00 then the country code, the area code and local number.
Time
GMT + 4.
Tipping
Most hotels, restaurants and clubs add fairly high service charges to the bill, therefore tipping is not necessary. Taxi drivers are not tipped.
Tourist Information
www.dubaitourism.com
Transport
Limited bus services link most towns. However, most hotels run their own scheduled bus services to the airport, city centre and beach resorts. Taxis are available in all towns.
Water
Bottled mineral water is recommended.
Map of Dubai
Please click here for a larger Dubai Map
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